How would you like your lobster...
Well, not much to add to the other posts other than I give up on surfing for now, its bloody impossible and don't talk to me about patience. I've tried and tried. The ankle is no help!
I have instead turned to the dark side and taken to body boarding. Cut your surf board into a smallish square you cant sit on and sand all the fibreglass off and you have a body board. Add fins (to your feet) for propulsion as you have to hang onto this thing with your hands and you have more water born anarchy! Those that do it well are very good I however splash around like an injured dog doing doggy paddle most of the time, getting washed around in the white water and generally wondering what all the fuss is about. That is however until I caught my first wave and rode it properly. This is where you should add a pinch of salt.
The wave was enormous. Its called overhead because if you stood next to the wave that's where it would be. This was at a point break called shipwrecks on the East Coast of Baja. It was en evening swell with plenty of big waves coming in. I managed to splash my way to where the waves weren't breaking and sat around waiting. For what you ask, well a big enough wave that could treat me like a pair of dirty socks in the spin cycle. Waves were coming through but out the back you wait for a bigger than usual to catch (suicide if you ask me.) IT came and I decided this was the one. I paddled like a spastic dog and lined myself up with a certain resignation. Normally at this point the wave overtakes you, your in the wrong place, everything happens too fast and your choking on salt water having forgotten to hold your breath or keep your mouth shut (my friends know this all to well!) before you know what's hit you!
When I opened my eyes I found I was hurtling along the middle of the wave (this is the magical bit) going sideways! Oh bliss, this is what its all about. The wave breaking just behind me and me racing ahead down the curving front face of the wave! A friendly Ozzie was behind me egging me on on the same wave, I looked round and was so surprised I ducked into the wave and out the other side. Oh man what a ride i was 'stoked' (I asked the ozzie if this is the right terminology) Splashing around in the aftermath of the ultimate ride (so far) i was happy but dazed by my success. I was then duly pounded by some massive waves that tore the body board from my arm leaving me to swim patheticly to shore like a broken stick (mostly floating), H was in the same predicament geting pounded by the huge breaking waves and was also washed up on the rocks. The ocean extracted its price.
Now, however, I dig the body board and like to get it into the teeth of the wave (as they are mostly smaller than the shipwrecks break) and really blast down the thing. I haven't pulled off such a stylish wave since but I'm working on it.
Oh, and yes, I'm mostly pink with a hint of burn.
